Common Geyser Problems We Fix
Geysers are essential in South African homes, especially during winter. When your hot water stops working, you need it fixed fast. We repair all types of electric geysers, solar water heaters, and instant water heaters.
No Hot Water
The most common complaint. Usually caused by a failed heating element, tripped thermostat, or electrical supply issues.
Common Causes:
- Burnt out heating element
- Tripped thermostat or ECB
- Faulty thermostat
- Electrical supply problem
- Timer/ripple relay switched off
Water Not Hot Enough
If your water is lukewarm but not hot, the thermostat setting may be low or the element may be partially failing.
Common Causes:
- Thermostat set too low
- Element coated with scale
- Dip tube broken
- Sediment buildup in tank
- Geyser too small for demand
Pressure Valve Dripping
Some dripping is normal as water heats and expands. Constant dripping indicates a faulty valve or excessive pressure.
Warning Signs:
- Constant stream from overflow pipe
- No dripping at all (potentially blocked)
- Rusty brown water from overflow
- Hissing sounds from valve
Leaking Geyser
A leaking geyser is serious. Small leaks become big problems. If the tank itself is leaking, replacement is usually required.
Common Causes:
- Corrosion of tank (sacrificial anode depleted)
- Failed inlet/outlet connections
- Element seal leaking
- Pressure relief valve failure
- Excessive pressure causing cracks
Strange Noises
Popping, banging, or rumbling sounds indicate sediment buildup causing the tank to overheat in spots.
Common Sounds:
- Popping/banging during heating
- Rumbling sounds
- Sizzling (water on hot element)
- Humming (loose element)
Discoloured or Smelly Water
Rusty or smelly hot water indicates internal corrosion or bacterial growth.
Warning Signs:
- Rusty brown hot water
- Sulphur/rotten egg smell
- Cloudy water
- Metallic taste
Geyser Maintenance & Servicing
Regular geyser servicing can extend the life of your geyser by 10 years or more. We recommend servicing every 2-4 years, depending on water quality.
Standard Geyser Service
- Drain and flush tank
- Inspect sacrificial anode
- Check element condition
- Test thermostat operation
- Inspect pressure valve
- Check electrical connections
Full Geyser Service
- Everything in standard service
- Replace sacrificial anode
- Replace pressure valve
- Descale element if needed
- Insulation check
- Compliance certificate
Understanding the Sacrificial Anode
The sacrificial anode is a magnesium or aluminium rod inside your geyser that corrodes instead of the tank. Once it's gone, your tank starts rusting. Most South African water is hard, so anode replacement every 3-5 years is essential.
When to Replace Your Geyser
Consider replacement rather than repair when:
- Geyser is over 10-15 years old
- Tank itself is leaking (not fittings)
- Multiple components failing
- Repair cost exceeds 50% of new geyser
- Insurance requires replacement for claim
Geyser Brands We Service
SA's leading brand
Quality water heaters
Reliable geysers
Instant heaters
Smart controllers
All brands
Italian quality
Heat pumps
Frequently Asked Questions
Element replacement typically costs R800-R1,500 including parts and labour. The price depends on element type, geyser accessibility, and whether the thermostat also needs replacement.
Immediately turn off the water supply at the mains (usually outside your property). Turn off the geyser isolator switch at your DB board. Call us for emergency service. Do not attempt to access a ceiling with water damage as it may collapse.
With proper maintenance, a quality geyser (like Kwikot Superline) can last 15-20 years. Without servicing, expect 7-10 years. Hard water areas may see shorter lifespans.
Usually caused by a failed element that's earthing out, or water ingress into the electrical components. This is a safety mechanism - don't keep resetting it. Call for repair.
Most home insurance policies cover burst geysers and water damage. Check your policy. We can provide quotes and compliance certificates for insurance claims.
60-65°C is ideal. This is hot enough to prevent bacterial growth (legionella) but not so hot that it wastes energy or scalds. Never set below 55°C.